September 6, 2024 Subway Eats

Kia now,

As I sit here across the road from my marae, Tuurangawaewae, sipping black coffee and snacking on toast, I am writing this week’s newsletter a little earlier than usual. I am participating in the seventh and final day of the Kiingi Tuheitia tangihanga, which means that by the time this newsletter reaches your inbox, Kiingi Tuheitia will have been taken by a fleet of waka to his final resting place on Taupiri, his heir will have ascended the throne and most of the thousands of people who have gathered at the marae will have returned home.

For the past week, hundreds of kaimahi have worked tirelessly, serving tens of thousands of people every day, from dawn until late at night. They have put their individual daily lives, jobs and households on hold to contribute to the collective. But in these kitchens, there is no talk of burden—only rolled-up sleeves, aprons, the ever-present Wellington boots and laughter.

Much of this work takes place in Kimiora, a huge wharekai with sweeping river views that opened in 1973. Down in the “dungeon,” a mass of food is being peeled, chopped, filleted and butchered, often to the soundtrack of classic hits playing on the radio. It’s a hive of activity, a sight to behold. Huge boxes of kaimoana and vegetables arrive, and meaty cow carcasses—all edible koha—are unloaded from trucks. The kai eventually make their way upstairs, where batter is made, fish is deep-fried, salads are mixed, raw fish is scooped and tall trays of potatoes are baked in giant commercial ovens before all of it is carefully wheeled through the kitchen, squeezing between the various ringawera stations. Despite the rubber boots, laughter and music, everything in the kitchen is working at full speed and with expert precision. It has always amazed me how all this passed down food (meaning you don’t really know what ingredients you’re going to get or how much of it you’re going to get) turns into an expression of manaakitanga.

Earlier this week I went with my uncle and cousin from Auckland. The lunch menu that day consisted of raw fish, pāua, green salad, rīwai, fried bread, steak, sweet and sour fish and peach sponge pudding. My cousin and I, eager to help despite the ringawer, practically begged for the kitchen job. We spent about three hours together coating the fish in flour – a task we suspect is usually done by one person. For two girls who grew up far from here, being in the noisy kitchen and having our insecurities about not doing enough (no matter how nominal the work we were doing) ignored meant a lot.

Kiingi Tuheitia will be remembered as a leader who, during his nearly two-decade reign, stood tall when it was most needed – and always with a uniquely down-to-earth, humorous style. In the words of Moana Maniapoto, he was “a humble man who rose to the occasion.” This year, he led a unifying opposition to the government’s Māori policies and Te Tiriti o Waitangi, continuing the legacy of Kiingitanga. Significantly, he called for National meeting at Tuurangawaewae Marae in January this year, drawing thousands of people from across the country in a powerful expression of kotahitanga, or unity. Just two weeks ago, in his annual Koroneihana speech, he spoke once again about the necessity of kotahitanga.

That is to say, at a particularly fraught time for Māori-Crown relations, this death feels particularly tragic. Yet amidst this sadness and anxiety, and just a week after many gave their time to help prepare food for the manuhiri at Koroneihana, the kitchens at Tuurangawaewae are bustling again. Even in death, Kiingi Tuheitii’s call for kotahitanga has been fulfilled.

Hei konā mai,
Apple pie

Coming and going.

Former Prego chef Sid Chopra just opened a new restaurant called Goat on Wyndham St. The concept is modern Indian, and I’m really excited about what I’ve read and heard about this place. The dish that gives the restaurant its name, “The Goat,” or champaran, comes from the Bihar region and features slow-cooked goat, spices, and whole garlic. In fact, the entire menu features dishes that travel across different regions of India, with dishes from Mumbai, Delhi, Kashmir, Goa, and more. Oh, and the cocktails sound amazing. I’m most thrilled by the “Thandai Tres Leches,” which combines a Mexican dessert with saffron milk, dried fruits, and a blend of spices.

The giant Asian supermarket Foodie opened in Westgate last week, right next to the equally massive Costco. At around 3,800 square feet, it could be the largest Asian supermarket in the country. I’ll be visiting once the crowds and lines (which I hear are huge) have died down.

Crazy PotAlbany’s Malatang has opened a new branch in the former Mojo space on Durham St in the city centre. Expect the same hits – dishes cooked in their classic beef soup, dry pots and their tomato soup filled with any combination of vegetables, pasta, meats and seafood you choose from their open coolers.

It’s hard to keep up with the ever-increasing number of coffee roastery branches Dear Deerbut there’s a new place in Ellerslie that looks like a wonderfully sunny place to pop into for a coffee. From the looks of it, you’ll find the usual array of beans, but also plenty of great-looking toasties – including a truffle and mushroom one and a bacon jam variety.

On Halsey Street in the city centre there is a new fish and chip takeaway called Catch and crunch. Fish and chip shops are hard to find in the city centre, and although I would argue that this is not your typical fish and chip shop, they do serve English-style fish and chips with mashed peas. The menu also consists of an eclectic range of seafood dishes: grilled fish bowls, prawn toast, crab hot dogs, prawn penne and fish ball curry.

With the arrival of spring, the change of seasons brings some changes to menus and transformations across the city.

This week’s Ponsonby restaurant Sidart the fine dining was eschewed for a more casual, modern version of Italian cuisine, and the dining room was redesigned to be more casual.

Meanwhile, Celeste Bar which transformed into a New Haven-style pizza restaurant in May has now returned to its original neo-bistro offerings. While the pizza was delicious, I have to admit I’m thrilled to see the old menu back… especially the flounder, which I’ve been craving all winter.

If you think back a decade, to the beginning Kiss KissYou may remember the restaurant operating as a cafe during the day, with coffee, a few breakfasts that were pretty ahead of their time, and food from the cupboard (lots of pandan, charcoal, and orange blossom). They’re now bringing back daytime hours with coffee and food from the cupboard from 7am to 11am, Monday to Friday — which also seems like a smart move, considering there are relatively few coffee options in this corner of town.

Namu Group (which also operates Dweji, Aigo, Gemmi and Tobi) closed its Commercial Bay Pōni restaurant last week, announcing the closure on social media and its website. Apparently, chef Nic Watt will open his new restaurant CānTīng in the same location later this year.

After two decades in business, Mexican Specialties closed earlier this week. I still vividly remember going there when I was in high school (probably when he was the original owner) on a rainy day with my best friend and being blown away by the food and decor of the place — one of those formative dining experiences. We felt like we had “discovered” a hidden gem.

Hot.

Crispy pork bánh mì from Happy Vietnamese restaurant in Kingsland.

Cuban sandwich stand in Queens Court.

Puccho candies with juicy grape flavor. (Available at the counter at Daikoku store on High St.)

Celery Salads with Spicy Dressing. (A great way to make the most of cheap celery prices!)

Gondure sotbap with He was singing He was singing.

Amba sauce.

Cheds.

Lilian is a very sophisticated non-alcoholic drink with dates, chai, soda and peat.

Wild Fermented Golden Sauerkraut. This is off-brand for me, but I’m fascinated by it.

And if you find yourself in Kirikiriroa, I highly recommend Bala’s Kitchen Takeaway and Restaurant in Claudelands (order the fried fish, curry dosa and wash it all down with a drip coffee).

NO.

Cutting toast and tea for new moms. Stingy! (Although it has now been restored.)

Sugar-free drinks. Yuck.

Staff shortages in supermarkets.

Where are we going?

Lillius is hosting another Uptown Snackastation lunch this Sunday, September 8. This time, Lillius Executive Chef Fraser McCathy is teaming up with Tommy Hope of The French Caféme for a long lunch, creating 15 snacks in between. Meals start at 1 p.m. and cost $150 per person, with optional wine pairing for $70 per person. Book Here.

To celebrate International Food Waste Day, local food rescue charity Fair Food has teamed up with Coco’s Cantina to host a charity lunch on Sunday 29 September. Tickets are $85 and include a welcome drink, a seasonal lunch showcasing sustainable food practices and a handmade ceramic mug from Auckland Studio Potters. Buy tickets Here.

On Saturday, September 21st from 3:00 p.m. Norma Taps will transform the City Works Depot car park into a street party celebrating the Bledisloe Cup match between the All Blacks and Australia. You can watch the match on giant screens, with commentary from The Alternative Commentary Collective, followed by an outdoor stage with local DJs until 11pm. Norma Taps will also be serving its signature draft cocktails along with a selection of food.

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